Freeze on sensor or cell window while cooling or warming process is one of the problem in many cams that are not fitted with some temperature control in the senseor cell.
To avoid the problems that would be nice to define a step by step cooling curve in Ekos options of the camera.
I second this, you should be able to define a time frame at which the camera cools down/warms up to a specific temperature. I had the protective window of my crack when i first bought my camera because the software i used at the beginning cooled the camera very fast
HEQ5 Pro Rowan Belt Mod, GSO RC8'', SW ED80, Atik 383L+, Atik EFW2, Atik OAG, SX Lodestar, ZWO ASI 120MC
This is a great idea. I manually do this now, but it is a bit hit and miss. Where i live the temperature difference between ambient and set point cooling is so high, rapid cooling or warming of a sensor may not be the best (shock to the sensor and dew freezing up).
So a simple user specified time between ambient (when you first start the camera) and your final cooler set point is all is required to create a linear temperature ramp for a gradual cooling and warming up.
Lots of trial and error, mainly error, but in hindsight, it was easy!!!
Takahashi FC100DF imaging scope, Orion 50mm guide scope
Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro via Wifi
QHY-163C, Canon 550D imaging
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DIY Astroberry focuser
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