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INDI Library v2.0.6 is Released (02 Feb 2024)

Bi-monthly release with minor bug fixes and improvements

Frustration !!!!

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Replied by Steve Crossman on topic Frustration !!!!

My D7500 DSLR had higher resolution than the 533MC does, 22MP vs. 9MP and it routinely gave 15fps or higher, even on the RPi3. Makes focusing difficult a 2FPS, especially with the amount of lag. I don't think 2FPS is normal for a USB3 device and the 120mm is USB2. I am using the USB2 hub built-in to the 533 and maybe those connections are slowing the rest of it down. I think I will put the mount direct to USB2 on the RPi4.
4 years 1 month ago #49832

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Replied by Jasem Mutlaq on topic Frustration !!!!


The DSLR is using a lower resolution jpeg stream, this is why the stream is faster. The 2 FPS is normal. If you're on a PC and running it locally, it might get higher. Now if you bin 4x4 then it might be better.
4 years 1 month ago #49835

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Replied by Gonzothegreat on topic Frustration !!!!

1600 vs 183 on my Megrez 72

4 years 1 month ago #49836
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Replied by Jose Corazon on topic Frustration !!!!

Either camera should be fine with your telescope. The 1600 has slightly higher full well capacity, so improved dynamic range, but the smaller pixels allow you to use it more effectively for planetary lucky imaging, which is what I want to primarily use the 183 for. Also, the 1600 has a larger FOV, while the 183 may have higher resolving power with a short refractor, so that may also become a factor for your decision making. Depends on what targets you are aiming for.
4 years 1 month ago #49838

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Replied by Bart on topic Frustration !!!!

Hi GonzoTheGreat,

If you really want to keep using a Atik 314, Have a look at this: www.te-les-koop.nl/index.html?BekijkAdvertentie.php&key=31423
te-les-koop.nl is a sort of Dutch craigslist specially for telescopes (in Dutch, 'te koop' means for sale).

I have an ASI1600MM cool (the version with the hub, but no memory buffer) and I've used it before on a stellarmate with only USB 2 ports succesfully. No significant problems with amp-glow either (although I read that with USB 3 it's even less).
I'm using it in combination with 1.25" mounted Baader filters in an EFW mini mounted on an F4.8 telescope (the Mak-Newt 'comet hunter'). There is some vignetting, but it's modest and can be corrected for. The image circle of the ASI183 is about 16 mm, compared to the 22 mm for the ASI1600, so I don't expect any problems with that, even on a fast system.
An advantage of the ASI1600 is the (small) flange to focal plane distance of 6.5 mm, that screws directly in the EFW so the filters are only a few mm's away from the camera front window.
I highly recommend cooling! Maybe with planetary and lunar imaging it's no issue, with longer exposures it is.

Sorry to hear about your troubles though, electronic gremlins are the worst!
4 years 1 month ago #49845

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Replied by Gilles Gagnon on topic Frustration !!!!

I will look into that tonight or tomorrow morning (UTC-5) as I have a few other things to look into first.

I assume that you want to confirm that 'uhubctl' cuts power to the N2 USB ports. Any ways to easily confirm that it does it correctly so that I provide you with the info you want?

Thanks.
4 years 1 month ago #49850

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Replied by Jose Corazon on topic Frustration !!!!


I think he wants to use that to disconnect the power to the cameras through remote control via the internet. So the simplest way to do it would be to check whether the cameras on your system disconnect when the power to the USB is cut. Another simple way would be to plug a device that can be charged through USB, e.g. your phone, into the port and check whether charging stops when USB power is cut. Or anything that has an LED that is dependent upon USB power.
4 years 1 month ago #49853

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Replied by Gilles Gagnon on topic Frustration !!!!

That's what I thought, thanks for confirming.

I did some test tonight and I am a little skeptical on how power is controlled. I had a USB LED light connected to one of the USB 3 ports. Turning off power individually or globally using uhubctl did not turn off the LEDs. On the other hand, I had a USB key connected to another port and it disconnected and re-connected when the port was turned off and on.

Will do some more tests tomorrow morning with an Arduino running 'blink' and/or a phone charger to try to figure things out. To be continued...
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4 years 1 month ago #49859

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Replied by Gilles Gagnon on topic Frustration !!!!

OK, from what I gathered, it would seem that 'uhubctl' drops the connection on a per port basis but does not drop VBUS (per port or ganged), unfortunately. That's probably good enough if you want to reset the device attached to the hub but not so if you want to completely power off the device.

Looking at the schematic for the ODroid N2 ( dn.odroid.com/S922X/ODROID-N2/Schematic/..._rev0.4_20190307.pdf ), it would seem that everything is there to power-control the USB hub on a per port basis but the particular USB controller for the ODroid N2 may not be suppored by 'uhubctl'.

If you have any other suggestions as to performing more tests, let me know and I will try to investigate a bit more.
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Last edit: 4 years 1 month ago by Gilles Gagnon.
4 years 1 month ago #49876

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Replied by TuxAstro on topic Frustration !!!!

Hello everybody,

I follow this thread with attention and I wonder if this should be useful to test USB ports ...


Gérard
Last edit: 4 years 1 month ago by TuxAstro.
4 years 1 month ago #49877

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Replied by Gonzothegreat on topic Frustration !!!!


Thanks for the tests, much appreciated. I'm currently using a ykush device to properly cut off the power from the USB ports.
Being able to cut off the power from the USB devices is a must for me, my observatory is far away from home...
4 years 1 month ago #49879

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Replied by Gonzothegreat on topic Frustration !!!!


That's a cool tool, thanks for the link.
4 years 1 month ago #49880

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