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INDI Library v2.0.6 is Released (02 Feb 2024)

Bi-monthly release with minor bug fixes and improvements

Indiserver WiFi option for Synscan Goto?

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Oh...and a last gasp: When the tracking is very good, as it was last night, I =must= turn guiding off. It will over-correct otherwise. Oddly enough, I can get RMS rates in the ranges of .2 to .4 if there is a little drift, but when there is no drift, guiding can't keep its hands in its pockets and I end up with tiny circles made from the faint stars as it corrects around the center point.
3 years 2 months ago #66015

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This horshead is by FAR better than the best I was ever able to make.

For the FOV: I used a small scope, 250mm focal length (not diameter, that is 50mm), so this is small magnification. But this camera has small pixel pitch, but relatively large sensor (as being 6 MP), so I get nearly the same FOV as I get with the large scope, and a DSLR.

Here is the same M42 from a year ago, with the large scope, and a Nikon D7000 DSLR, 106 times 4 sec expo (I cannot remember, but most probably it was tracked by the Synscan handcontroller):
3 years 2 months ago #66018
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Gubi,

Hmmm., I think I like the new one best. The previous version is still better than mine ever was, though. Well done on both.

I really need to use darks and flats. Noise is a big part of my issue with good images. I also think I am using too much gain. What gain setting do you use with that camera?
3 years 2 months ago #66021

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I don't think dark or flat helpson noise. Darks helps on hot pixels or other permanent sensor faults, but do not help on random noise. Flat helps on uneven field, which may help when you try to supress the noise floor, but not on the noise itself. These ones are made without dark or flat. The old one was ISO6400, the new one is gain 200. I think 200 is the max usable gain with this camera, as you can see the raw images are quite noisy. The only thing helps on noise is having many many pictures. 100 at minimum, but more is better. I usually make 200, but not all usable.
3 years 2 months ago #66025

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I had been using 255 (the max auto-gain setting) with shorter exposures and getting a LOT of noise. I used 150 with the 20 second exposures to better effect. I agree that 200 is a good max number for that camera.

Star Tools manual "says" that they use Darks and Flats in their noise reduction algorithm. Siril agrees with you on the use of darks and flats. I haven't used them much up to now, but some folks swear they are priceless. Your image, however, proves the "data is king" rule.

I typically try for 200 subs. Often, I get that many, but with a good number of throw-aways. Rotation is also an issue, but I don't see myself ever bothering with a rotator. I just crop.
3 years 2 months ago #66054

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Hmm, I can set gain up to 400, but at that gain it generates soo much noise, I don't it is usable, at least i would need several thousands of light framses to avarage that out.

Do not beleave in any "magical" algorithm that removes noise with dark or flat or anithing else. Dark is removed from every frame, right? No random noise (in the light frame) can be eliminated by removing a static "dark" frame! It can eliminate anything that is permanent on your sensor, such as hot pixels. But nothing that is random in nature. Similar storry with light frames. It can eliminate faults like pathces from dust on the sensor or vignetting, but not random noise.
I have experimented with dark and flat frames but i don't see that dramatic effect.

Rotation is an inevitable issue, I agree, and there are parts of the sky where it is more paiful (zenit) and there are parts where it is not so painful (lower part at the southern sky). I deal with it by crop. Just as with the migration during tracking. And as we anyways need to crop to the middle of the frame, vignetting is not as much an issue.
3 years 2 months ago #66063

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