I have one setup in which I have a Stellarmate device connected to a Pegasus Powerbox using a connector with the Stellarmate device.

I am wanting to get together another guiding setup for a telescope I have on order. In my online searches however I can't seem to find a suitable cable for attaching the Pegasus Pocket Powerbox to a Raspberry PI 4 that I purchased.

Is there any 12V to 5V USB C to 2.1mm adapter available? I've searched extensively but found nothing.

Just power it from one of the USB ports it’s easier....and then you just need a USB to C cable which are readily available....

That would certainly be simpler but the Pegasus Powerbox that I have doesn't have the USB ports.

The ultimate version is a lot more expensive and a lot more ports than I need.

The Stellarmate device included a cable that achieved this so I thought that there must be more cables of this type.

In reviewing this closer I see that the Pegasus Powerbox Advanced which is about half the price of the Ultimate includes 4 USB ports. I ordered this plus the USB C to USB A cable.

It appears that my original Pegasus Powerbox and the newer Micro are just incompatible with a Raspberry PI 4 device.

What you are describing is a DC step-down converter.
And you could probably DIY something out of this.
www.amazon.ca/HOMREE-Step-Down-Converter...harger/dp/B07ZQB6S3L

You can also consider a power HAT for the raspberry Pi. Such as the one by Docker Pi.

That does look like a interesting DIY project. I might have to give this a try. Even though I purchased the new PPA device I would like to have a shorter cable on my existing setup.

Thanks for the idea!

No need to wonder if this approach will work. The HOMREE stepdown converter approach is exactly what I did and it works great. I recommend you add a small in-line switch as well so that you can turn on the power to the PPB but wait to power the PI4 until things are stable (e.g. powered hub, SSD, etc.). If you just solder the 12v connector without an in-line switch, the PI will attempt to start at the same time as the PPB is powered (or you'll need to run the PPB software in disabled port mode to control when the 12v is applied to the 5v converter). I found adding the small in-line switch and mounting it right by the PI very convenient. I just power up the PPB, and when everything is stable, I flip the inline switch and the PI is powered. The 5V connector is always connected to the PI (reducing wear on that connector). Shown in the attached is the "stack", including the converter (top), Pi+switch, SSD, and PPB.

Good luck, Doug

I recently purchased the PPBA and have been searching for a solution to this problem. Today I think I may have found some ideas. Remember the adjustable output can supply the 5V the Pi wants.

www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B088LLSVQS/ref=cm_sw...86CD24EENZVCRJRVEFSH
Although the headline says it's a 2.5mm plug, one user complained that it was actually a 2.1mm plug.


www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ML3VFXV/ref=cm_sw...0KY9DB2TX6MYHVHBYR9E
This might work with the supplied 2.1mm leads.

I've just recently purchased the PPBA and was wondering exactly the same thing. I was searching for solutions and came up with these two:

www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ML3VFXV/ref=cm_sw...9W9PHN0X2N5S0RWTHGTP

www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08R2W3SSV/ref=cm_sw...A6A8QFTJRD2ZF5Y294AW

Not sure but these might work with the adjustable power output socket which can be set to 5V

With the PPBA it would seem that you could just use an USB C to USB A adapter as this Pegasus product has USB ports. As far as adjusting the voltage for a specific port I'm not certain how this would be achieved. Perhaps the same could be said of the 2.1mm ports, I really don't know.

Doug, I know very little about do's and don'ts with electronics. I am a little confused about needing a switch as the Stellarmate device's 12v to 5v USB C to 2.1mm adapter did not provide a switch and the connection seems to work OK. I'm a little limited in my DIY skills as well. Otherwise I really like the potential solution that the HOMREE cable would provide. I have seen mentioned where others have used switches in their setup but the when's and how's are a little beyond me.

Well, if you're not good with electronics, and it's working without an in-line switch, then you might want to leave it be or find a friend (youtube/google is your friend)! You don't "need" the switch, but it's a good idea to have one to isolate the PI from the PPB. Otherwise, when the PPB is powered, everything including the PI gets power all at the same time. The switch isolates the PI from PPB power so other stuff is powered up first. The PI can then get clean/stable power when the user decides it's ready.

If you get brave, there are 4 "bare" leads in the HOMREE+switch config (2 from the switch, and 2 from the HOMREE). The USB-C is on the 5v side (ignore...this is for the Pi connection). One of the bare switch leads is soldered to one bare lead of the HOMREE. The other lead from the HOMREE is soldered to one of the the 2.1 connector wires (but you need to make sure you've connected the right wire to the right 2.1 connector...red 12 V only to red 2.1 center, OR black lead to outside 2.1 black ground). A volt meter is handy to make sure you've done this right. Finally, the remaining lead of the switch is then soldered to the remaining lead of the 2.1 connector (with a final sanity check on polarity). To complete a circuit from the HOMREE, the switch must be in the ON position. Otherwise, there's no flow. Hopefully this makes sense. If not, best either leave as is or find a better friend You don't want to aggravate your PPB and blow a fuse or worse.... Cheers, Doug