My 2 cents, i would prefer if one or a few of the 12v output ports could be adjusted from 5 to 15V. I power my equipment from a deep cycle battery and in order for my mount not to have the blinking LED which means it doesn't have sufficient voltage, and it affects guiding, and for my camera to perform with no issues i power my equipment with 13,5V. I still haven't see this feature in any power box which means i have to power the power box with 13,5v and then distribute those 13,5v via the power box to my equipment for proper functionality.

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I second this, you should be able to define a time frame at which the camera cools down/warms up to a specific temperature. I had the protective window of my crack when i first bought my camera because the software i used at the beginning cooled the camera very fast

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I feel your anger about this unlucky incident, i myself had a similar issue the made me lost some imaging days and it is due to my stupidity of the moment. The last weeks i was feeling a jiggly motion at the focuser area of my rc scope and i couldn't locate it, maybe it was the focuser drawtube? But during the last two weeks when i tested a fresh install of indi at my pi the collimation of my scope was completely bonkers, i packed my equipment went inside home and did a collimation (this happened twice at my limited days off from work), the last time i had the same issue after recollimating my scope i was near the point of selling all of my equipment and stopping this hobby. But then as i was placing my rc scope on the ground i noticed that the whole collimation plate of the primary mirror was loose, turns out i kept forgetting locking the collimation plate of the scope so naturally my collimation was going to get problematic after each movement of the scope.

Sorry for hijacking your post for my story, but i had to vent some steam.

Also for a new guide camera i would suggest the SX Lodestar camera or the SX2 Lodestar, i have successfully located a guide star with my Lodestar camera through an OAG at my RC scope (1624mm) at a white zone.

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kostas replied to the topic 'HEQ5 pro hypertune' in the forum. 5 years ago

is it possible to post the secs of the bearings you bought? i want them for future reference

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kostas replied to the topic 'HEQ5 pro hypertune' in the forum. 5 years ago

how did you polish the gears?

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kostas replied to the topic 'HEQ5 pro hypertune' in the forum. 5 years ago

Hi gonzo, the second link you provide is from my mount and i can assure you that it still runs at 0.9'' of guide error with my rc 8'', i haven't regreassed my mount for years and the only bearings i have not changed are the small ones for the worm gears. I am thinking of sending the mount to darkframe in order to change the worm gears for better PE and new bearings and grease but it is not at my top of the list. Best of luck with tuning your mount and don't be afraid to ask for help

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i feel you, even though i have my setup a few meters away from me once i have set it up, i stopped using INDI a few weeks ago once everything went downhill for my equipment for no apparent reason (maybe the atik driver messed things up). i switched back to windows so i can get some imaging time after two years of hiatus, so every small detail has to work almost perfectly since every year i get less and less time for imaging due to my work hours. My advice is to test different software if your gear doesn't work with the current one, what software to use i am not sure since i have been away from the hobby for two years so others may have better solution, just don't give up the hobby the frustration of not doing your favorite hobby it will eat you inside.

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I had my heq5 pro upgraded a few years ago and its performance is much better than it used to be, as for the idler axis i had a friend make me a new one so i could revert back to its original state if i have to (no i won't). A few pointers for adjusting your mount, make sure you remove as much as possible the backlash of your axes especially at the dec. Also remove the cone error of your setup (i used conesharp) as it helps with its performance. FYI with my RC 8 i can get under 1'' of error at phd so the mount worths the upgrade

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at a recent test with my atik 383l+ i noticed that i have bin options that go over 20x20

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kostas replied to the topic 'Plate Solver fails to solve' in the forum. 5 years ago

i tested at my screen in order to apply the settings at the first picture you see the settings after a succesful solve at bin 1x1. at the second screen is a failed attempt at bin 2x2 since the ccd simulator crashed

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kostas replied to the topic 'Plate Solver fails to solve' in the forum. 5 years ago

i include photos and a log. Here is what happened. I changed the setting for an ed80 at the driver screen and went to the solver tab. The fov at the first picture is for an RC8 since the last test was for the RC8, i updated the FOV at the solver options but the apply button for this creen is hidden but the lower taskbar and i can't resize the window in order to see these buttons (maybe you allow for resizing this window in order to be able to see these buttons in small screens, since i work my pi from my tablet), when i did a plate solve the ccd simulator crhashed. so i include the log file.

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kostas replied to the topic 'Plate Solver fails to solve' in the forum. 5 years ago

i have done a blind solve with a bin 2x2 image of M31 for my rc 8/atik 383 and it solved it successfully with the correct FOV and resolution. The FOV you see at the last images is for an ED80/atik 383l+ and the FOV is set for degrees at the plate solve options, the ' is placed automatically by the program when i enter the FOV. The successful attempts were made by the simulator but the live attempts failed with the same settings.

Since then i have gone back to an intel compu stick with win 10 and sgp but i noticed something that needs testing. Before the failed attempts i used a DIY power supply and powered my atik/fw and mount with 13.5V so that when i am on the field my mount won't have the blinking light that means it has not enough power and for my camera in order to have regulated power so that its performance won't degrade while battery power drops during the night. The weeks before the failed attempts i replaced my DIY power box with a Pocket power box form pegasus astro for weight reduction and at my last run with almost full power at my equipment (cooler on at the camera at -10c) i had the blinking light at my mount and at the power box, this meant that my equipment did not have regulated 12V that the power box delivered and now i feed the power box with 13.5v. I will do another test to see if the live issues i had the with the camera and maybe the plate solver were affected by the voltage drops i noticed. But this does not explain that the plate solver failed at 4x4 bin in simulation with mains power supply for both my rc 8 and ed 80 combinations.

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kostas replied to the topic 'Plate Solver fails to solve' in the forum. 5 years ago

just wondering is there a way to install an older driver for the atik camera in order to check if i have the same behavior?

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