I am currently seriously considering the new Odroid-N2 as an upgrade.
I have been eyeing that as well. If you go for it, please let me know.
I'd love to know if these work properly in place of the PI. STILL VERY CHEAP, 3.0... I have a 094 and each sub is 72+MB. I'd love to hear from anyone using one in our situation.
This is another target I did that night. Probably my worst image ever. I had a hard time picking out the nebulousity with the OSC camera. This too was a DSS LIVE stack.
PUSHED to the max and some = ( There are histogram sliders in DSS LIVE you can adjust during stacking. something EKOS fits viewer needs BAD (it's the only fits review that doesn't have any histogram controls! = (
Anyway this made me realize I have to go to darker skies with the OSC (or wait for perfect nights with no moon.
Here are the 8 subs I stacked. You can see by the hot spot the different exposures. I threw the worst out into the non stackable folder and kept the best 8.
DSS LIVE will look at these and produce a color stack.
with DSS live (free) you set the path that it will monitor. I had some issues with it debayering at first. There are no settings. Someone told me I had to go into DSS (not live) and set those settings... and DSS live will use the same settings. I have no idea how to use DSS... I tweaked a couple settings to debayer and stack a test. I then exited and then DSS LIVE worked. I use pixinsight for stacking normally... but I do love to use DSS live during acquisition. This is one of the first OSC images I did with the 094 and the only one that was any good. Other targets were to weak for my LP.
I've moved this camera to a little 80mm and a little mount that I plan to use at my daughters (darker skies) this summer.
The only time I ever used DSS was to set debayer. Else should be defaults. (the two programs confuse the hell out of me). Luckily - DSS LIVE has no options. Just set the monitor folder... let some get saved and hit go... or stack. And let the fun begin.
Caseyfinn wrote: Ron that is beautiful and not just for the simplicity of it. Mind sharing your settings for live stacking. I’ve never done that nor knew it was available. I guess you’d just have DSS monitor a folder and anything new is just added on top of the last as long as they line up? Then bring the black levels up/sky glow down in photoshop? And of course you could just watch your project coming together in a kinda rough draft work flow?
+1 I have this box too. It would be important because many people with stellarmates use this power box to power the entire system. (as I do but I use the Asiair at this time)
I've not looked at the driver yet? Is Kstars/Ekos more stable on the stallarmate vs PC connected to PI server? (which crashes quite often on PC).
maxthebuilder wrote: OK guys - thanks for helping! The main thing I got out from all this - it's hard to get good results @ Bortle 8 site. Interestingly enough, yesterday, I got a decent picture of the Owl nebula with just 45 x 60 sec (it's high up in the sky - maybe less pollution reaches there). Leo Triplet was OK too two weeks ago. Just Markarian's Chain was awful (shot next day after the Triplet).
I'll play with gain, offset, exposure time to get better results.
Higher is always better - Bortle 8 is NEVER GOOD. I'm in Bortle 6 and it's hard... I have learned I must use mono and NB filters. As I said before I never can get longer than 60 second exposures with out the background sky washing out the target.
For this reason and finding out that my ASI094 doesn't work if there is any moon at all at home. I built that camera into a light small portable setup that I can bring to my daughters house about 20 min N of me. They have Bortle 3 and I can see the milky way every night there.
While at home Best I can see is the dipper. Best bet - shorter exposures and try DSS live . It will debayer, stretch and stack your images live as each shot it taken. I use it with Ekos because the Kstars/ekos suite has a LOUSY FIT VIEWER.
You will also have the best luck with brighter targets. M42, M33, M101... M42 etc.
This is M42 with my OSC camera (which often does poorly at home) however M42 is bright...
Dates:Jan. 4, 2019
Frames: 8 X MIX of 8 second to 120 second exposures. So like 8 - 20 - 30 - 60 - 120
Avg. Moon age: 28.10 days
Avg. Moon phase: 2.31%
DDS live - then photoshop enhanced.
F8 APO, L-pro filter
When it did complete focus it would say 1.2 or 1.0 or even less HFR. I run DSS live and it weighed the same subs with a HFR of >3 or even >4.
I've never had it give me any problems in focus before.
I didn't try PHD on the PI again, but I did boot and calibrate and used internal guiding last night. Started up around 1.0 rms - I tweaked settings and quickly got it down to .50... with a bit more watching and tweaking I was a good .39 - .49. It works VERY WELL through out the nightly test. HOWEVER - I have never had focus problems before. I have not changed anything. I could not get focus to work. I tried single/auto select crop and focus. (generallly it lost the star after some attemps to correct. Other times it continued to try and focus (near very low HFR) numbers and never stopped. Later I could get better results (it would try) with full frame. HOWEVER it would say 1.0 or even under (nice) HFR and the subs were horrible. After an hour of fiddling with settings... I stopped it and manualy focused visually pretty close using the automatic control. But manually looking at stars and HFR. It then managed to shoot a couple infocus subst then I believe it was lost again.
Another night of nothing useful. Guiding was promising.