wvreeven wrote: I now have a ZWO 5-position EAF as well and was thinking to replace it with an 8-position EAF so I can add OIII to the LRGBHa that I already have.
Yeah, I was thinking of the 7 position version, for $100 more, I figured I didn't need it yet. But, I know I'm going to wish I did.
I just ordered the Astronomik H-Alpha 12 nm Filter - 1.25" and will put that in along with a Astronomik CLS Light Pollution Filter, I'm going to wish I had the extra space.
I am going to experiment with the filters next to my "Dark" space and see how that goes. I might even make a disk from leftover flocking material that I used on my old dob.
It has been working well. I'm adding a couple of dark frames after a bunch of lights. I'm calling them all "Lights", but changing the filter. It puts them in the Light directory, but in a sub-directory named what the filter is named. I also give the Prefix "Dark or Bias"... so it works. This keeps guiding going so when the Lights start back up, I haven't lost position (guiding is normally halted when you do Dark/Bias images).
It worked very well last night. As another test I just took a 180 sec / 800 ISO in daylight (I did have my white t-shirt over the aperture). Not a peep of light!
I did have a slight issue when I added my Darks/Bias to my imaging sequence... it gave a description in the queue for the filter of "----". I understand that when doing these images, no filter would mater since the scope would normally be covered, so I get it. I got my Darks/Bias without getting out of bed, so I'm very happy!
I did have the post MFlip issue where the re-alignment seems to get stuck and stops taking pictures. But that's unrelated and I only saw it because I did get up at 2am just to check on my experiment was working.
I'm pretty excited, got my new ZWO 5-Position filter wheel. I'm using a Canon DSLR 600D, so I didn't really get it for the LRGB filters, but instead for the ability to do my Darks and Bias without having to wake up and run outside in the wee hours.
So far even in the daylight I'm getting no light bleeding in. I do have it on the opposite side as my open slot and I covered the others (and used black flat paint for the shinny screws inside).
The drive ASI EFW seems to be working. I even had to go to a LYFNLOVE powered 3.0 USB hub (I know, a cheapy, but I already had it) that didn't work on my RPi3, but seems to be finding everything (after a couple of tries) on the RPi4.
Changing the filter names helps a bit, kinda cool feature and of course makes sense. And when I get a narrowband Filter, I'll be able to put that in there.
universalmaster wrote: After working on my observatory for several years, I finally got first light yesterday and tried kstars/ekos for real for the first time. Notthing worked 100%, but it is now in a state where I can clearly see the light at the end of the tunnel (tube)
On the to-do list:
1. Get plate solving and goto to work properly, as you can see it is not spon on! Seems it is recommended to use an off-line solver rather than online?
2. Use another guide camera. The ASI 120 MM gives messed up frames from time to time, which wrecks the guiding.
3. Make a gutter for the part of the roof that is inside the observatory when open. Of course it was dripping with water ONLY at the spot where all the electronics are. Fortunately they are inside a cabinet, but still....
4. Get autofocus to work properly. Could not get it to do anything. The image is focused "manually" using the "in" and "out" buttons in ekos.
5. Set mount limits, as it hit the pier once and plate solving got confused...
Thanks to all for this great software, I look forward to using it for many years to come
1. I've been using Off-line for the past few sessions since it's returning at about 15 seconds vs 70+ for on-line. But make sure you start off with 0' x 0' for FOV unless of course nothing has changed since it found it before.
I still give it a sanity check, since I remember months ago it was not working well.
2. I use a ZWO ASI120MC-S for my guide camera and a Solomark 50/190 scope. I have pretty good luck with it using 2x2 binning, autostar, subframe selected. (I know autostar select is not recommended, but it works)
3. Oh man, that would be my luck! And cool you have an observatory... I just have a pier.
4. I need to do some more test with logging on for autofocusing. I've been using a Bahtinov mask and the in/out focusing buttons. I have issues when the autofocuser make a donut from a star.
5. I'd be interested in how to find my rigs mount limits. But the autopark feature has been my favorite rig saver.
Great stuff here. Worth reading a few times. I run everything on my Raspberry and noVNC on everything else (PC, tablets, phone). I never thought of breaking up the processes and letting my Pc do the heavy processing.
I'm looking to get a filter wheel. I'm getting tired of running out, putting the cover on/off.
I see the ZWO 8-Position Color Filter Wheel EFW8 has a good price. I will still be using my Canon 600D for a while until I can afford a good Astro Camera.
I don't see ZWO on any of the choices for filterwheels in the drop down. I do see Atik EFW, not thinking that is the same.
Had an interesting issue this morning. After my scope auto parked (and thank you for the default), my camera continued to take pictures. I don't remember that happening before.
Also, don't change your Guide Binning while guiding. Yeah, I know, who would do that? I saw it was 1x1 and though, oh, that should be 2x2 and a I clicked the drop-down and it immediately crashed INDI. Maybe the drop-down should be disabled while imaging? No matter, I learned my lesson... haha!
Also using DSS Colored still really slows everything down... badly. I didn't expect that with 4GBs on the new RPi.
I use my Canon 600D on my Celestron 8SE with a focal reducer giving me a FOV: 57.5' x 38.3' w/Focal Reducer
I even used my Guide Scope (ZWO-ASI120MC-S) as a main scope with a FOV: 90.4' x 67.8 (this was just an experiment, the image was fairly poor... trying to get Andromeda)
Both worked fine. Although the Sims don't really work for me... no test images setup for them I'm guessing.
I'm also doing the same. Mine is the Deepskydad AF1. So far, it's been working great. The focuser module hasn't worked very well lately, once the module creates the "donut" it gets lost and reverts back to the original position. So I've been using my bahtinov mask. But to the subject of backlash, the bar in the photo below seems to do the job. I'd like to have some sort of pulley setup with a spring, but this works.
I would think with 4GB's of memory I wouldn't see the same thing as with the 3Pi. But when I turn on DSS Colored, everything performs terribly.
Now I should say it is better than the 3Pi, but it's still pretty bad. But the thing is, the System Monitor doesn't really show any jump in memory or CPU. Nothing that should show a system slowdown (slow clicks and such).
Is there a better way to show DeepSky images? I do turn it off when I'm not using it.
wvreeven wrote: Nice, good job on making this progress! For your next steps I suggest to critically review your focus procedure. Especially the M 31 image is out of focus. This is not meant to put you down but as a suggestion for making even more progress. Keep up the good work!!!
In what spot/area... It looks good to me. I ask just so I can improve too. FYI, I have to use my bahtinov mask instead of the focus module. Still use it to adjustment my focus in/out... but the code doesn't like any donuts, it tends to fail.