Saw same behaviour with my GEM45. I will check again, purging saved driver configuration and restarting from scratch.

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Matteo Piscitelli replied to the topic 'Tips for Auto-Focus' in the forum. 2 months ago

I think "Out step multiple" set to 2 is too few: you have only two shots on the right-hand side of the V. Have you tried with a value of 3 or 4?
My two cents.

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I use an iOptron GEM45 with the iOptronV3 driver and it doesn't need any alignment to be fully utilized from Ekos.

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Hi,

you can uncheck "Remember job progress" in Ekos Scheduler Configuration  

 and maybe check Timestamp in images file names to avoid the need to remove images from the folder.
Hope this helps.

Matteo
 

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Hi,

Radek did the same thing inside its "Astroberry-DIY" drivers collection. You can find it here: github.com/rkaczorek/astroberry-diy and look in astroberry_relays .h and .cpp.
Hope this helps.

Regards

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You're right: those serial cable components are vital. A remote trigger is nothing more complex than "closing a switch" (in fact you can do it with your finger tip :D), something than a standard PC is "electronically" not capable of, at least without a dedicated circuit. In particular, USB signals are totally different animals.
DIY guys use a pre-made USB-to-serial cable (that's not simply "a cable", since it contains a small circuit inside itself) to obtain a simple "on/off" signal at one of the serial "pins", that can be driven through some softwate instruction; then add the necessary circuit (the components you said) to let it become a "switch". Eventually it becomes a "software controlled switch", that's exactly what's needed for a shutter release command.
Luckily, those additional circuits are very simple, and can be realized without a PCB, needing only some soldering skills.
Lacking the skills, I understand that could be scary, but not impossible.
Otherwise, you could find someone near you that's able to help you building it.

Sorry to carry the bad news, but hope to have helped you clarify things a bit.

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Hi,

for me it's not clear what you're trying to do: do you want ESP32 to drive physical devices (i.e. a stepper motor for a focuser, another stepper motor for a dome, meteo sensors, ...), and manage all this from Ekos?
If your answer is yes, than you don't need to implement an indi client on ESP32: you need a firmware to drive the devices and communicate (via WiFi if I understand) through a comm protocol, and an Indi DRIVER (focuser, dome, meteo...) that understands the same protocol sitting in-between Ekos and your ESP32(s).

Hope this helps
Matteo

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check rolloff.ino.boutons is the generic arduino program to use relays and switches to drive roof motors; it's written for Arduino *standard* (UNO, Nano, ...) and I think you won't need to edit it so much.

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Matteo Piscitelli replied to the topic 'Power Shield for Astroberry' in the forum. 1 year ago

tikiss wrote: Regarding the focuser, the target (basically the recommendation was) is to have a stepper output, means the currently existing Astroberry focuser Indi driver would be possible to use with this board.
So I am working on integrating a DRV8834 driver on board.

Maybe I'm wrong but DRV8834 wants max 10.8V as motor voltage. Since we'll work in 10.5V-13.8V range, maybe it's better the A4988?

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Matteo Piscitelli replied to the topic 'Power Shield for Astroberry' in the forum. 1 year ago

tikiss wrote: Yes, I am thinking about how to implement it, I do not really want to have the housing bigger, and currently, the front and back plates are full of connectors, based on my testing during the last week, it seems that I have to remove the onboard BME280, because the RPi temperature is influencing it quite much, so if I do so I would have space for another connector.
Do you think a JST 2,54mm pitch connector would be okay for that? I think an RJ11/12 is more common, or?


I totally agree to keep the housing dimensions as they are. If you're talking about motor connector, RJ11/12 definitely is the way to go. I was thinking of a JST connector to optionally connect the motor driver module, but if you're planning to integrate it and provide directly a motor connector it's better.

tikiss wrote: When I have started that design I have also thought about single-channel current measurement, and I am open to modifying it, with a smart MOSFET so I can also remove the fuses because the smart MOSFETs are overcurrent protected. This could help the place a stepper driver on the board.

Overcurrent protected smart MOSFETs would be perfect, provided we have enough pin to interface them.

tikiss wrote: As I mentioned previously the onboard BME280 cannot be isolated 100% from the RPi, so I am planning to remove it, and maybe add two 3,5mm jack connectors, one for I2C sensors, like BME280, and one for one-wire sensors. Let's see how all these fits on the board.

I don't like 3,5mm jack connectors, seems to me they are not reliable and time-resistant; but it's only me and lacking a better alternative they're ok.

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Matteo Piscitelli replied to the topic 'Power Shield for Astroberry' in the forum. 1 year ago

Hi tikiss and all,
very good work, I'm interested in one maybe two machine-populated units.
Just some notes:

  1. ATM 4 GPIO left unused. If GPS reset is not used and 3Dfix led can be sacrificed, we could have 6 gpios to let the unit control focuser stepper motors using already available Radeck Astroberry Focuser indi driver. On the power shield side, only a JST like connector to link one of those mini stepper controller modules is needed.
  2. MCP3202 can be replaced with 3208, and populating 1 INA328 and OP-AMP per channel we'll have amps readings per-device instead of total. Maybe it's an overikill, don't know.
  3. the OneWire pin can be used to chain one or two DS18B20 temperature sensors to monitor stuff that has to be kept dew-free: since ambient temperature and relative humidity are already avavilable, we can calculate dew point temperature and automatically regulate heaters at minimum power needed to keep dew away. Obviously lacking (or not working) the sensor, the channel works in manual power mode. I've already done it with Arduino, code is simple and I can contribute it.

What do you think about it?

Matteo

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