I do not really understand what you mean when you say "worry". This board is a HAT or Shield for Raspberry, without it, it is not able to operate. PPB is let say a stand-alone product.
gilesco wrote: I would worry if it tries to emulate the PPB Advance to a tee.
Regarding the focuser, the target (basically the recommendation was) is to have a stepper output, means the currently existing Astroberry focuser Indi driver would be possible to use with this board.
The moonlite focuser interface, for example, is something that I was hopeful to not have - no use for me, can be done via the Pi.
I am also working on to get a price for machine populated boards.
I guess the price point would be the key
The current mechanical design is based on to use standard aluminum extruded housings, this Argon One type would require a complete redesign, and the pre-cuted connectors (HDMI, USB-C ...) are useless for that design.
tied with an Argon One M.2 case... or can take on the PPB Advance, with Pi4 integrated, with a type of Argon One M.2 thepihut.com/products/argon-one-m-2-raspberry-pi-4-case
Exactly, that is what I have also found in the catalog.
mlarsson wrote: i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ItUAAOSw55FcVvQ9/s-l1600.jpg
Yes, I am thinking about how to implement it, I do not really want to have the housing bigger, and currently, the front and back plates are full of connectors, based on my testing during the last week, it seems that I have to remove the onboard BME280, because the RPi temperature is influencing it quite much, so if I do so I would have space for another connector.
picciux wrote: ATM 4 GPIO left unused. If GPS reset is not used and 3Dfix led can be sacrificed, we could have 6 gpios to let the unit control focuser stepper motors using already available Radeck Astroberry Focuser indi driver. On the power shield side, only a JST like connector to link one of those mini stepper controller modules is needed.
When I have started that design I have also thought about single-channel current measurement, and I am open to modifying it, with a smart MOSFET so I can also remove the fuses because the smart MOSFETs are overcurrent protected. This could help the place a stepper driver on the board.
MCP3202 can be replaced with 3208 and populating 1 INA328 and OP-AMP per channel we'll have amps readings per-device instead of total. Maybe it's an overkill, don't know.
If I understood the others, they were recommending the PowerPole instead of the XT60 input power connector. I agree with you the normal DC jack (2.1mm or 2.5mm) is better (more common) to use for the outputs.
Deesk06 wrote: I like the original design OP has. Powerpole connectors are great but seems like it would take up more real estate on the hub itself. Those connections are somewhat wide. The 2.1mm connection seems better IMO with the reverse polarity protection
Yes, I have also found on Wikipedia that radio amateurs using it as well.
jabian wrote: They are very common in ham radio. There are racks for power distribution, very popular, some with fuses. Some models can stand very high currents.
mlarsson wrote: Hi!
And I'm talking about these:
To be honest, this type of connector was not known by me till today, but I like it, I can imagine replacing the XT60 with a 45A type of Powerpole.
mlarsson wrote: Why not an Anderson Powerpole connector for 12A?
The input connector is an XT60 type, such a connector is needed because the board can handle 15A, and a usual DC jack (2,5mm/5,5mm) can carry only 5A.
stevenball wrote: The 12v power is connector, is that a common style connector with leads that can run from a battery pack with say a car style cigarette lighter socket on ?
That is a good idea, but unfortunately, currently, the Raspberry design has no option to connect an external antenna, maybe to hack the RPi would be possible, but one of the main points was during the development is to use the RPi as is, then everybody can attach it.
Psamathe wrote: 1. Add an external Wi-Fi antenna (signal strength seems an issue for my RPi inside a case
That is a really good point, currently, the GPS and the fan are on the same side, and to use the internal GPS antenna the top of the box should point upwards.
2. Fan location/position: dew falls downwards so ensure the airflow is drawing in from underside and expelled ideally through a side?
gilesco wrote: Yes, don't get me wrong, I'm interested with this "as-is", but as we're still in the stages of design, just thought that some suggestions might still be worthwhile. Even if it is space internally to house a 2.5" SSD SATA, and a hole (perhaps with a blanking plate) big enough to loop a USB cable back internally.