Every now and then I find Kstars (3.5.0 & 3.5.1) will crash, seemingly randomly, but so far not during an actual imaging session, just during testing and fiddling about. (Which is good considering how few clear nights we get around here in the winter.)

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Spero, during my testing I had the same problems you mention. Here is what I did that worked for me:

1. Long download times. The ONLY way I found around this is to run Ekos on the laptop and talk to the Pi using a VNC viewer program with the following settings: In Ekos (on the laptop) under the Capture Module set: Save to "Remotely" AND in the Indi Control Panel in the Fuji camera's tab and under the Options tab, set Upload to "Local" AND under the Image Settings tab, set SD Image to "Delete".

Using these settings images are downloaded onto the Pi in the directory specified AND, despite the SD image set to Delete, the camera's internal SD card. Note the image save directory must match in both Ekos Capture Module and Indi Control Panel screens or a directory not found type error occurs.

The camera keeps using the file numbering scheme it always does while the files on the Pi are labelled as defined in Ekos. Downloading the images this way appears essentially instantaneous. Every other combination of settings I tried resulted in download times like you mention ~70 seconds in my case. Didn't matter whether I kept images on the Pi or had them sent back to the laptop. The best I could do was if I connected the two computers with Ethernet, and save images to the laptop, the download times dropped to ~23 seconds - still way too long.

Another benefit to having SD Image = Delete is that I no longer get missing or repeated images in long sequences. When set to "Save" after about 20ish exposures the camera buffers seem to overrun and images are not saved to the camera SD card (and sometimes the last image before the camera balks is saved to the Pi over and over again. These duplicate images, as saved to the Pi, are named correctly according to Ekos, but are in fact just duplicates of the final image before the camera choked.

2. First exposure attempt fails. I don't have an explanation for this but I quickly learned to do at least two test exposures each attempt. When everything is setup properly, the second exposure works if the first fails. (if it doesn't it means I've not set something properly - usually the camera has powered down...)

For the record, my system comprises a Pi 4 (4GB) booting Astrobrerry from a SSD. One USB 3 port on the Pi connects to a 12V powered USB 3 hub. My guide camera connects to the Pi through a USB 2 port. The Fuji X-T3, the mount (HEQ5) and the SSD all connect to one of the USB 3 ports on the hub. If I remember to turn it all on and change the settings in Ekos/Indi (as they don't always seem to "save" properly) I get things running reliably. I am shooting and saving RAW files (Fuji RAF)

You mention you are not running Ekos on a separate computer... you may not find the above useful but I thought I should mention what I find works for me. Perhaps you can find some clues...

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I am working with a DSLR for the foreseeable future and have spent quite a while scrolling through numerous log files chasing clues as to why things don't always operate as expected.

To this end, it would be useful to see ISO changes flagged or at least called out in the log files. Exposure times are called out but ISO values are not.

(background - I am chasing an issue where in a given imaging sequence ISO values, and exposure values do not always change when starting a new Job in the sequence. Filenames always indicate the expected exposure time, but the EXIF data in the RAW files indicate other values for exposure (and often ISO.)

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David Swinnard replied to the topic 'DSLR viewer issue' in the forum. 4 weeks ago

Perhaps I am misunderstanding you, but... How are your image saving locations defined? I have to have Ekos Capture module Save set to "Remotely" and Indi Control Panel Options Upload set to "Local" or my images get pushed to my laptop (from the Raspberry Pi at the telescope) taking anywhere from 23 to 80 seconds depending of whether it's Ethernet or wifi connection. During this time the exposure sequence is paused. With the settings above, images stay on the Pi and the sequence proceeds along nicely.

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As I am currently using a DSLR (Fuji X-T3) for my imaging, and will likely be for the foreseeable future I would be pleased to see the following in Ekos:

1. The ISO setting value as part of the filename. (to complement the exposure time and type of frame)

(if there is a way to do this already, I've missed it...)

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David Swinnard created a new topic ' Simulator for DSLR?' in the forum. 4 weeks ago

Is there a simulator for DSLRs? With CCD simulator I cannot access ISO setting nor the option to save as RAW (of native) format.

I am troubleshooting an issue where my Fuji X-T3 doesn't always have the correct shutter speed or ISO set when exposing a given sequence. Filenames are correct though (exp. time, time and date) but the EXIF data says otherwise.

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cgmiller wrote: I have added my 2 preview files to Dropbox so you can see them as well.

www.dropbox.com/sh/iwqppyiiy72jh8a/AADov...rbgsdAJMBRAOtha?dl=0

I'll add that I'm running this on a RPi 4 with 4GB Ram as well. I've also tried Disabling both the FITS Viewer & the DSLR Image Viewer and the crash still happens at the same point.

If I change the FORMAT in the Capture Module to NATIVE - it works fine - even with the Viewers still enabled. This is only an issue if the Capture Format is set to FITS. So I have a temporary workaround in my case, but I'd love to be able to capture in FITS instead. :)

Thanks for the replies already & for the work to review the issue!


I am using a Fuji X-T3 and have had no luck in attempting to save in FITS mode. When I save in NATIVE (the Fuji RAF file) I have no issues saving to the Pi (very quick), or to the laptop (really slow). I, perhaps naively, assumed FITS wouldn't work as the camera does not support FITS. My FITS conversion is handled by Siril when preprocessing the images later.

Random Kstar/Ekos crashes happen and I've not really noticed a solid pattern yet. It always seems to come up again fine.

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I haven't yet spent any time exploring Live View, but it is on my to-do list. I look forward to hearing your progress.

On the other hand I've been trying to sort out why I'm not getting all the images in a sequence written to my camera's SD card. Some show up on the card, others do not. (but they all seem to show up on the Pi (Ekos capture set to "Remotely" and Indi (Fuji_CCD) set to "Local".

I am also having an issue with Darks (shot using the Fuji). So far they have all be just copies of one of the last "Light" frames from the sequence before the Dark sequence. Not just more Lights, but the same light file saved over and over - the name of he file changes to match the sequence setting though.

I am going to create another post when I have all my observations done. (System is exposing sequences as I type this...)

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timopro wrote: I use a Fuji X-T4, and a PI4, actually everything listed by DaveSW are the same except for:

<strong>The camera is set as follows:</strong>

2. Manual shutter, I can use all exposure time I want, no issue

<strong>In the Ekos/Indi setup screens:</strong>

4. SD Card (Save/Delete) seems to never save the image onto the SD card


timopro, thanks for contributing to this list. Regarding the two items quoted above, can you elaborate a bit on them?

When you say "manual shutter" do you mean you are adjusting and triggering the camera yourself, without Ekos/Indi, using a cable release or intervalometer? Are you using the mechanical or electronic shutter?

Regarding the SD card (and by this I mean the SD card in the camera). Do you save images to both the camera's SD card and your system?

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I updated my original post to trim the verbiage and add a few details.

I'm hoping to hear from other Fujifilm owners working in similar directions.

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knro, I could cut the editorial comments and shorten it if you feel it would make a "sticky", please let me know. I am hoping other Fuji users will chime in with what they've learned in their journey.

A thing I noticed today while going through the images I shot on the one clear, successful night I've had is a file misnaming. A number of my 30 second files were labeled as 60s. I will put in a separate post when I have all the misnamed files sorted out,

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After trying to use my Fujifilm X-T3 under Ekos/Indi control I finally “succeeded”. What follows is a list of things I learned so far:

The camera is set as follows:
1. Manual Focus
2. Electronic Shutter (ES) (not manual shutter) is required to allow external control of shutter speeds.
3. "B" setting on exposure dial – allows Ekos/Indi to set shutter speed. The list of permissible speeds is listed in the Kstars log file (Debug enabled) following the line:

[date & time DEBG][org.kde.kstars.indi] - Fuji DSLR Fujifilm X-T3: "[DEBUG] Finding exposure widget…

Using shutter speed settings NOT in this list (Ekos Camera module has many available) results in failure and having to “reset”. I found this out after doing this: It is possible to choose exposure times (7 seconds was where I first noticed it) that are not supported. This fails, leaving the camera in the flashing green mode and unresponsive. The Indi driver (I assume) has a list of shutter speeds that seem allowable – I found this list later...
4. "A" setting on ISO dial. Ekos/Indi sets the ISO
5. Camera's PC Connection Mode set to "USB tether shooting auto"
6. When using camera with a Fuji XL lens installed (rather than on the telescope) I have the lens in manual aperture mode and image stabilization set off.
7. Camera is also set to fire with no camera lens attached ("Shoot without lens" = ON) This is the mode for using the camera on a telescope.

In the Ekos/Indi setup screens:

My “control system” comprises a MacBook Pro laptop (2016) w/Kstars 3.5.0 & 3.5.1, Raspberry Pi 4B (4GB) running latest Astroberry, 500GB Samsung SSD, a 12V powered USB 3.0 hub. Connection Mac to Pi is via a 50 foot Ethernet cable (flat, STP) with VNC viewer. Wireless proved to be flaky given existing router locations.

The controlled equipment pieces are, the Fuji X-T3 as the main camera, an ASI120mm mono as the guider (on a 60mm scope), and a Skywatcher HEQ5+ mount (as Eqmod).

- In the Indi Control Panel – Options screen, “Force Bulb” must be OFF for any function to take place.

- In order to reduce time between exposures I have set the (laptop) Ekos Capture Module to “Save = Remotely” to keep the 53MB RAW files from downloading to the laptop (which takes 20 to 75 seconds depending on connection to the Raspberry Pi, Ethernet vs. Wifi) To make this work the Indi Control Panel – Options is set to “Upload = Local”.

- SD Card (Save/Delete) seems to always write the RAF file to the SD card. The image files saved to the Pi use filenames set in the Ekos Camera Module (File Setting) whereas the files on the SD card use the normal Fujifilm designations. (equates to two files of each exposure with different file names – not an issue as far as I’m concerned.)

Other observations:

- I am using a USB 3 cable with type C to A connectors for the Fuji main camera, plugged into the powered hub to prevent excess power draw (due to it’s “topping up” the battery operational characteristics – I was seeing a lot of under-voltage errors logged on the Pi, especially when I started using the SSD for boot/storage.) I bought the hub after fighting with this for a while...

- Guide camera is USB 2 and is connected directly to one of the Pi’s USB 2 ports. (It seems if I plug both cameras into the Pi, or both into the hub, the ASI120 is not recognized. (I don’t know why, but one in each makes it work.)

- The SSD (USB 3) and the mount (USB 2 w/FTDI adapter cord) are plugged into the hub. (connecting the mount directly to the Pi doesn’t seem to “upset” the guide camera.)

- When the system is functioning properly the LED on the Fuji X-T3 flashes alternately green and orange. If it just starts flashing orange only, or green only, then "something" has happened and it seems I have to reboot the Pi in order to get things sorted. Just power cycling the camera or unplugging/re-plugging the USB connections doesn't seem to "fix" it. (though somebody with more experience with the Pi universe might have a trick I don't know about.) A vigorous startup procedure is required.

- Camera LED is green when Pi is rebooted with camera connected (USB 3 port on hub). This seems to indicate a live USB connection is recognized by the camera
If camera is off when when attempting to connect with Ekos it reports Indi can't connect. Turning camera on and reconnecting in Ekos, results in connection (and at this time, the green LED turns off).

- Starting an exposure sequence causes LED to turn green momentarily then start flashing green/orange (same rate as green flash only)
After exposure is downloaded, the LED continues to flash orange. I take this as a sign that the next exposures in the sequence will work.

Yet to sort out:

- Is live-view supported? It would be nice to focus viewing computer screen rather than contorting around to see the (usually) poorly place LCD screen on the camera. This would also make using an electronic focuser realistic. (though I must say the clear Bahtinov from William Optics works a treat on a reasonably bright star – way better than I had assumed before actually using it)

Other things… (there has to be more, I just haven’t run across them yet in these early days of my foray into this fascinating world)

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I have the X-T3 and have been working (fighting) with Ekos / Indi trying to make things work.

I have discovered:
1. Force Bulb = OFF
2. Camera set to ES (electronic shutter), Shutter speed dial set to "B", ISO dial set to "A", focus selector to Manual, "Shoot without lens" = ON, Camera's PC Connection Mode set to "USB tether shooting auto".

I am shooting RAW, uncompressed files.

I am able to use the camera via Ekos / Indi to make exposure sequences. (but only using shutter speeds that the camera is capable of - the Indi driver only supports certain shutter speed despite what the Ekos Camera Module drop down box shows. e.g. setting 7 seconds causes the camera/driver/?? to fault require (in my case) a reset of the Raspberry Pi that runs the system. (I found a list of "supported" shutter speeds in the Debug log produced by KStars.

Hope this helps you a bit.

I don't know whether the X-T1 has these settings available in it's menus or not.

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While troubleshooting yesterday I went back to 3.5.0 and DID see the integrated tabbed display you reported in 3.4.3. I guess something got tweaked slightly the wrong way... (not being a programmer, I couldn't even guess).

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