Thanks! Good one about the dummy HDMI, just ordered that... that would have been frustrating figuring this one out...!
I've been running on a RPI4 with SSD and I often get crashes when messing around in the fit viewer... I can see a cpu spike in the CPU manager... and boom Kstars crashes...
I can't wait to have Kstars working with all the bells and whistles like it does on a desktop.
I figured the boot options. There is a timeout period in the dual boot menu coming up when you have both windows and linux installed. The default is 30s... and the selected option will boot automatically. Here is a video showing you how to change to timeout value to something smaller: www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCxyLVNOZiY
So I should be set!
I have just bought a NUC 8i5 that I will setup as a dual boot windows/linux machine. I'm planning on using Kstars/Ekos as a local AP control rig when in Linux.
This is my first time doing it with a NUC (used a RPI4 in the past with stellarmate)
Anything I specific I need to know? Anything I wish you knew before doing this?
Things like what is the best version of Ubuntu to install to play nice with Kstars/Ekos, will Ubuntu 20.04.3 LTS be the one?
Is it as straight forward as installing Kstars from the software centre? Will all the indi drivers be installed along side Kstars with this method?
When dual booting, I will get a dual boot splash screen to select Ubuntu or windows.. Can I set it up to auto boot to linux? Since I will be remotting into the NUC I don;t really want to go out, plug a keyboard into the NUC to just press entre to get to linux everytime..
Thanks for your advice in advance!
For the past couple of nights I have been unable to use the internal guider and had to rely on PHD2 for guiding when it use to work flawlessly a few nights ago..
I'm calibrating near the equator and meridian like I normally would, but for some reason calibration is now running away in RA without ever coming back. I can event get to calibrating DEC anymore on a brand new EQ6-R.
It is all working fine in PHD2 through Ekos and calibrates perfectly. I've tried different steps and iterations in Ekos guide module options, but the same result every-time... I previously successfully calibrated Ekos guide module many times before using the recommended number given to me by PHD2 for my location, focal length, pixel size and pointing at the meridian/equator and that gives me 1100ms pulse. I had it on 7 iterations and it always looked perfectly perpendicular with very little backlash... guiding at 0.5... but now my calibration plot looks like a complete mess (attached pic)
I have cleared previous calibration many times, my polar alignment is good. the mount is balanced with no snags.. all cable managed
Any idea how I could fix this issue?
I've included a screen shot of what happens in the calibration in Ekos. I have also included the guider assistant result from last night from PHD2 in case that helps.
Also I'm sure if this could be related but I have had intermittent issue with my EQ6-R usb version crashing Ekos as soon as it would connect to the mount. Deleting all my profiles and creating a fresh one my all the same gear would also result in the exact same issue, ekos crashing instantly when connecting to the mount. I had to first create a profile with a Simulator CCD and EqMod only for it to not crash when connecting to the mount and THEN modify that profile with my gear (canon eosm100 and a Zwo ASI 120mm)... I'm not sure what that is
On another note, when I got it working in the past, I have noticed that if I did my calibration using a binning of 1x with my guide camera and then switch to bin 2x when guiding, my guiding was instantly 40% better guiding in between 0.4 to 0.5 rms... Calibration on bin 2x and guiding at bin 2x does not yield the same results and i'm around 0.8 to 0.9... that seems odd to me as I shouldn't be doing my calibration at a different bin than my guiding....? PHD2 actually brings up an error message when trying to do that I believe.
I would appreciate any help on this!
Well I calibrated last night near the meridian and equator and I was getting 0.5rms all night… so I guess that’s pretty good!
Thanks guys. So if I understand this correctly, for me being in the southern hemisphere, I would point the scope North and set DEC to zero or close to it right?
I just did a quick simulation in Kstars... and based on my understanding if I picked these coordinates that should give me good calibration:
RA: 05h 12m 00.00s. DEC: 00.32.30.48. Azimuth 359 37 25. Altitude 51 31 51
Do I get this right?
In PHD2 it is recommended to calibrate near the meridian with dec=0 and then re-use that calibration for guiding when slewing toward the imaging target for the night.
When using the Ekos internal guider does the same principle applies for calibration? So far I have been doing my calibration on my target for the night and recalibrate every time i move to a new target...
I'm just wondering if my guiding accuracy would improve by calibrating near the meridian with dec at zero.
For those of you with a Canon EOS M100 having the same issue, here is a work around. Jasem has been kind enough to remote in into my system and tried everything he could, tweaking the gphoto drivers etc... without success unfortunately.
However there is a work around that works well so far:
1) Set your mirror lock to the value of 10: The camera will lock up for 10s before the exposure starts
2) Set the capture format to NATIVE. This is very important. If you set it to FITS the camera sensor won't be illuminated and your picture will look like a dark frames... strange but that's the behaviour.
3) You can now exposures as long as you want without issues that fully illuminate the sensor
Note: updating the camera firmware has no effect... so don't waste your time here. You will now get CR2 pictures opening in the FITS viewer. Those won't be stretched properly and will look strange compared to pictures taken in FITS (at least for me...!). However they look identical to fits in other processing software like Astro Pixel Processor, Photoshop etc... so don't be alarmed... what I do is take a 180s exposure in FITS at 800 iso to make sure everything looks good (that exposure length doesn't not shutdown the camera when downloading) then proportionally adjust the ISO and longer exposure length and quickly import the first exposure into APP to double check.
Why bother with a M100 anyway...? well its really cheap on the second hand market, I got mine for $100, with astro modification it ended up cost me all up about $350 which is pretty great. It has the same ASP-C sensor found in the Canon D80, which is a new generation low noise sensor. It's very light compared to regular DSLRs. Downside? Does not support tethering natively, unless you use Ekos, Gphoto2 or Cascable which are 3rd party applications.
Thanks Kevin. Yes power saving features are turned off
and the rest of it
while I'm at it I have attached all Indie report for the camera if that helps..
Thanks for chiming in Jasem. This is what I see. Pic attached