dmnkhhn wrote: Hey!
Are you using the Rock64 or the Rock64Pro? It looks like a good alternative.
I'm using the Rock64. I very happy with it - I can download and save a 32mb image in seconds, and start the next capture. It's been very stable. I haven't used it in warm weather and I suspect I need to add some cooling other than the passive heat sink, and I can verify it works down to -25 C with no issues.
wvreeven wrote: jmh, how do you power the Rock64 when at a dark site? Do you have a custom 12 V to 5 V converter that produces the required 3 A or does the Rock64 boot with standard cigarette plug converters? The reason I ask is that the Odroid XU4 refuses to boot at less than 3 A.
Apologies for the delayed response ...
My dark sites are at campgrounds and I take my camping trailer and either get power at my site, or I use my generator inverter and use that to power my trailer and all the astrophotography gear.
I am building a power box and on EBAY I purchased a couple of 12v to 5v converters used in cars (presumably for USB). The ones I have supply upto 3amps. I've attached a picture of it.
dmnkhhn wrote: Hello!
I am using a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ with Lubuntu 16.04 on a SSD with external Wifi (headless, controlled via VNC).
The setup runs great but the lack of USB 3.0 made me think of better alternatives.
The Pi 4 is not coming out till 2020…
What devices, similar to the Pi, are you guys running KStars on?
It should have USB 3.0 and be able to run Ubuntu (or Lubuntu, or Xubuntu… )
Is the ODROID-XU4 any good?
Greetings from Germany
I use a Rock64 configured to boot from a 240GB SSD, currently with Ubuntu 18.04. I run all the indi drivers for my devices (CEM60 mount, QHY cameras, Rigel focuser) on the Rock64 and I run Kstars/EKOS on various x86-64 systems in my house (or travel trailer when I'm at a dark site). My Rock64 has 4GB RAM, USB3, USB2 and requires 5V,3A power (but rarely exceeds 2amp draw).
The only issues I've encountered are with USB3 hubs, and I haven't found a good one that is robust and can survive operating outside in an observatory. Even though they are shielded from weather, the reliability is low and performance is sometimes an issue. I'd be interested if any of you can recommend a robust high-quality USB3 hub.
Gonzothegreat wrote: From the back of my thread recommend-a-mount-please , opening this new one as I would like to know who here uses a iOptron mount (any models)?
If you do, which one please, which indi driver, issues, pros/cons, guiding graph available, etc..?
You've seen my response to your thread on Polar Alignment. I've had a CEM60 for about 1 year and it's been in my obs since early May last year. I have no issues with it with one exception where I was using it at about -30 C (well below it's rated temp) and other than that, it has worked well.
It work very well with INDI, so much so I never use the hand controller for anything other than to set the zero position and occasionally to park the telescope. If I had to by another mount again, I would buy the CEM60 again.
Gonzothegreat wrote: When I say "you do not need A perfect alignment", I do not mean by that a rubbish PA. It has to be as good as it gets without loosing sleep over it sorts of speak ...
Yes. You want to be reasonably close. The attached chart is the best results I've had with PHD2 on my CEM60 and I was about an arcminute off. Looking at the scatter plot, you can see that RA was worse than DEC (but still very good at 0.31").
There are websites that will compute the amount of rotation you will get for a given alignment and image plate scale, so you can get an estimate of how close you need to be for a given exposure length.
I see a variance of around an arc minute or so between polar alignment measurements. Back-of-the-envelope calculations suggest that the variance is within the errors of mid-range mounts. (I'm using a CEM60 and it works very well for the loads I put on it.) It's not going to be perfect, and we shouldn't obsess of these measurements. With a 120mm refractor f7.5 imaging scope and an 80mm f4 guide scope, I've achieved 35" RMS on my CEM60 which is better than I expected. I can't get quite as good with a C11 + the same guidescope on the mount, but mount dynamics are quite a bit different for the C11 load - PHD2 reports I'm between 0.5 and 0.8 arcseconds RMS with the C11 which is pretty good.
Recent guidance from the PHD2 folks suggest you should not strive for a perfect polar mount as that can contribute to oscillation in DEC, and instead, a bit of polar misalignment helps to steady DEC . The amount of misalignment depends on the length of sub-exposure and plate scale which determines the amount of rotation you will see in the image. PHD2 tends to settle down at a couple of arcminutes off NCP, but that is likely because I polar align the image axis, not the guide scope which is not perfectly aligned with the image scope.
Bottom line is the EKOS polar alignment works very well,
PHD2 Best Practices is an excellent read, and work really well with EKOS/INDI.
Yes it does, unless one overrides it.
This works - the EKOS Camera, Focus and Solver panes now correctly shows there is no filter connected. Thanks for you help!
Log attached for completeness.
Camera is working again. Looking at the code, and assuming I'm reading it correctly, I wonder if there is some confusion with regards to what the driver returns: The QHY163 can support a filter, but in my case, there is no filter, and I don't know if the driver is confused between the ability to support a filter as opposed to an actual filter present and attached to the camera.
Log attached for completeness.