Hi Phil, Not sure I fully understand where you're going with the question, but beyond the lower right control for size, you can always use the mouse roller and click/drag to upsize the Ekos drift plot graph to only show whatever size circle you want. That includes preventing (for example) the outer red circle from being seen to emphasize only the inner yellow (or green) areas. I'm not sure you can get this to "stick" across sessions (i.e. you may need to do it each time you start up), but at least you'll be able to size the graph to closely approximate what you see with PHD2 if that's what's desired. On your second question, I believe the answer is no. CS Doug

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Hi James, I can appreciate the frustration that comes with problems like you're seeing. We spend so much time getting past bad weather, and then it's terribly frustrating when things go wrong in software. That said, it's wise to have a better backup strategy. In my case, I ALWAYS keep a second PI4 with the last known working config on it (just in case). I don't update that config until I've checked out any new feature I want (and I don't update SW often now that I have what I need). That backup Pi4 has saved my butt a few times. The kinds of problems you're seeing may be frustrating, but are foreseeable and avoidable! For the low cost of maintaining that backup HW/SW combo, having it at the ready (just in case) is well worth it. Something to consider. CS Doug

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Doug S replied to the topic '~' in the forum. 2 months ago

Hi Ron, no need to spend too much time on the seeing issue. Unless you live on a mountain top, you won't experience 1 arcsecond seeing very often (and possibly never). Most amateur sites are in the 1.5 (best) to 3 (or worse) arcsec seeing regime. If you set up CFZ for ~2 arcsecs seeing, you'll be fine with that 1/2 mark discussed previously. Then, if by chance you get lucky and get 1.5 arcsecs or better on that rare occasion, you're still likely to be fine. Hope that helps, Doug

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Yes, a 1/2 size setting should do the trick pretty well. On very rare occasion, you might land at the extreme edge of the CFZ, so if you wanted to short that 1/2 by a tad, that would give a bit of insurance that you're always going to be in the zone.

Seeing is often estimated by double star separations (visual observers do this regularly). You can get a coarse feel for seeing over time by watching HFR floor values during focus runs too.

Generally, I don't change my step size. I know my site, and it's nominal seeing spread. I factor the step size for good/very good conditions, leave it there, and accept that the "actual" CFZ for a lesser seeing condition will be larger. I accept some wasted measurements in those conditions (while praying for seeing to improve!) ;-)

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Hi Ron, Hy's given you what amounts to some coarse rules of thumb. If you are interested in precision (to avoid wasted time), I suggest you become familiar with and calculate your critical focus zone size, and measure your focuser drawtube travel. The 3rd important variable is your motor counts per revolution (focuser motor). You don't want to set a step size larger than the CFZ (otherwise, you'll just jump over best focus). Too small and you'll waste time walking through several measurements in the same CFZ.
The CFZ topic and calculation (don't be scared by the math...it's easy enough) are covered here:
www.goldastro.com/goldfocus/ncfz.php
Some minor time spent reading another related topic can help too (starting at the link):
indilib.org/forum/ekos/8963-question-abo...e.html?start=0#68078
You'll then be in position to set that step size properly and with confidence that your V curve will be sized right. In an ideal world, the step size setting should be automatic (based on other system parameters), but it's not too hard to set manually. You'll also have a better handle on how seeing affects needed precision.
Good luck and happy readings, Doug

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Doug S replied to the topic 'Tips for Auto-Focus' in the forum. 4 months ago

Hi Sonny, I sent you a PM. We can deal with any questions via PM from here. CS Doug

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Doug S replied to the topic 'Tips for Auto-Focus' in the forum. 4 months ago

Hi Peter, this isn't about any specific setup. It's about a general failure to understand basic principles (e.g. averaged sampling, polynomial regression, and flawed reasoning regarding a single seeing affected HFR vs the entire autofocus measurement set). The developer has a fairly long focal ratio instrument (wide CFZ), so is less affected by poor final position than those with short focal ratios (narrow CFZ). As such, getting close was "good enough". Precision was never the goal. This is all-too-often a trademark of amateur / hobby development. All I can say is that it's fruitless to continue this discussion here in the forum. You (and others similarly affected) should send Jasem a PM if you feel strongly about having this finally fixed.

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Doug S replied to the topic 'Tips for Auto-Focus' in the forum. 4 months ago

Hi Sonny, one of us doesn't understand. If you have a build environment, you can fix this yourself (I can send you a small code fragment that will do it). No need to pay anyone. If you don't have a build environment, but you're willing to pay to get this fixed, wouldn't it be better to just acquire your own build env with the fix? Finally, if you have neither the desire nor feel comfortable building the SW, you're stuck trying to solve a political problem of changing the developer's mind and/or getting the decision overridden by Jasem and/or others via GIT. There's no technical problem here....just politics. If you go the DIY build route and want the code fragment, send me a PM and I'll help you get past this "feature". Cheers, Doug

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Doug S replied to the topic 'celestron CGX/L' in the forum. 4 months ago

Hey Jerry, Just FYI, although I've been somewhat leary of the Ekos PA routine in the past, I'll note that after 3.5.4 when the CGX axes senses got flipped back to normal in the INDI CGX driver, I was able to test the difference between the Ekos PA routine (done away from polaris by almost 90 degrees east, and using westward rotations of 20 degrees), and PHD2's drift align / guide assistant results. I was pretty careful to level the mount before hand, and let PHD2 settle for about 4 minutes (both drift and guide assistant). In the end, the results differed, but only by about 30 arcsecs or less. That's sufficient enough. FWIW, I'm running 3.5.6 (but essentially it's 3.5.5 stable as I grabbed it right after the new release was issued). Since we have the same mount (only -L version difference between us), I would think you should get ok results if you're reasonably careful in setup....

To Guy: I think you'll find it *much* easier to avoid ASPA in the hand controller and just do an Ekos PA and then use StellarSolver to platesolve on targets. If you find you're not very good at the "rough" align when you setup, you can really quickly improve your results by doing a PHD2 rough drift align to get close (but no need to let it settle). Then switch to Ekos PA and dial it in quickly. Just a thought....

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Doug S replied to the topic 'celestron CGX/L' in the forum. 4 months ago

You should be fine. I also have a CGX-L, and only use the USB-B cable to the mount head when I need to run CPWI and PECTool. Otherwise, when running Kstars/Ekos, use the hand controller miniusb interface. From a cable management and robust PI4 perspective, I found the cleanest solution is to use a powered USB hub. Since the hand controller is only used for power-up initialization, I've velcro'd it to the front end of the dovetail plate and use the top end (RA axis) AUX interface. Only a power cord is required to come up on top from below. In my case, I added a bundled ethernet cable (fast transfers). The whole top end looks like the image....clean. I recommend the low end PowerBox and SSD replacement of the SD card too.  Good luck as you sort out your own config! CS Doug

  



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