not exactly a Dome but a Roll Off Roof. Domes and Roofs share the same base class but Roofs have only Park / Unpark (i.e. open / close) features.
If this is enough for a test, happy to help.
I've a Pegasus Power Box v2 too if you need additional tests.
Where MW4 can be downloaded? And can it be installed alongside MW3?
But since this topic was started I didn't have the chance to test it.
the only setting I ever changed are the coordinates in site management tab. The driver worked fine for me since the beginning and never had an issue.
Chose to have 'mount updates ekos' with the only reason that the model is built inside the mount and I didn't want any external input affecting that.
But first of all download MountWizzard3 by Micheal (who usually reads this forum), it's a great software that will help you in polar alignment and building a model for your mount . Since you have a mount that allows for autoguiding I wouldn' t spend a minute trying to guide.
thank you for sharing your experience. And I understand that given the constraint you have this is an optimal solution.
Luckily I will leave the camera soon under a Bortle 2/3 sky and do not have issue guiding more than 5 min.
When you say that CN recommends "mean ADU should be 800 - 1100 ADUs above the dark ADUs" you mean a sky background area of your light frame not the dark frame mean ADU, right? else you are not taking in account light pollution.
El Corazon wrote: I am imaging under Bortle 8/9 conditions and for those conditions gain 240, offset 40 and exposure times of 8s for L, 20s for R, G, B, 120s for Ha, 60s for O3, 120s (gain 270!) for S2 seem to work best for me.
above gain 200 the read noise doesn't decrease any further while the full well capacity and thus dynamic range are dropping linearly. I do not see the advantage* of going at such high gains given the fact that moreover you are forced to do shorter frames that in the overall integration increase the read noise.
For my first tries (Bortle 8/9) I'm settling at 75/12 for LRGB and 200/50 for SHO adjust time according to saturation.
(*) Unless you are using lucky imaging or want better guiding.
thanks again for your support.
I already had a CMOS camera (ASI 071) so the amp glow issue and related impact on darks and flats is something I was able to manage.
First time with a mono, so the input about the duration is very helpful. Btw at what gain / offset you image? for LRGB and NB
I was only taking darks so far so had no chance to check a visual result.
I will stick with the 16bit option as you suggested, thanks.
I just bought an ASI1600 Mono camera and i'm puzzled by which RAW format to choose.
The camera has a 12bit ADU, so saving images at 8bit (16MB files) some information should be lost. On the other hand 16bit (32MB) gives room for all information contained in the image. Which option are you guys using?
I would go for the 16bit just to be sure but I have to transfer the files over the internet so size is an issue.