On another note I could not wait for the A9488 stepper motor driver to arrive so I installed a drv8825 driver board I had lying around instead. I can confirm that along with the recommended A9488 and drv8834, the drv8825 also works perfectly.
Hi all I'm having an issue trying to automatically connect to my Astroberry Focuser that is running on remotely.
My setup is as follows:
I built an Astroberry Focuser using a Raspberry Pi0W (Raspbian Buster and Astroberry DIY as per github.com/rkaczorek/astroberry-diy). I set the Rpi0W up with a static IP and it always connects to my Asus Tinker board (which runs in hot spot mode and I remote desktop to it). I modified the rc.local file on the RPi0W so that indi_rpifocus starts on boot up.
I have Kstars/ekos running locally on an Asus Tinker board under ubuntu 18.04. To this device I have my imaging camera, guider and mount connected. I have added the remote computers alias (I called it focuser) to the tinker board “sudo echo "10.42.0.193 focuser" >> /etc/hosts”.
On pinging the remote computer, the local computer (Tinker board) can see the remote client is connected and the driver is running.
In the Profile Editor, I enter the remote computers credentials ("indi_rpifocus"@10.42.0.XXX), but the astroberry focuser does not start in ekos.
But if I create a client in the Device Manager and connect to it first, the astroberry focuser connect and works.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong? I just want to eliminate that extra step of going through the Device manager to connect to the remote client.
Hi all , just to reignite this post, my board has arrived, i have flashed the firmware in stationmode and it is working. If i can get access to the indi code to test that would be great.
Hi all, just to clarify, the Canon RP connection via gphoto is fine; can control, focus, capture, images download, etc......... but the issue is libraw still does not support RAW (CR3) format. The FIT image is being converted from the jpg, not the RAW (CR3). When capturing in the Native option, a jpg is downloaded, not a RAW (CR3).
So it looks like there is still some waiting to do.
Only wish i could code to help out
Hi Vince, so im running an asus tinker board with Ubuntu 18.04LTS using kstars 3.3.8 (i did an updated last Sunday 8/12/2019).
Connected my RP and captured a photo in FIT format. Image came across ok. Then i switched to RAW in the Ekos menu and it captured as well?? I did not see any error.
Hi all, i have started this tread as a follow on to the last few threads on the serial version of the my Focuser Pro 2 DIY project (see
). My understanding is that the serial version now works and a full Wifi version is close but needs some testing.
I am building the Wifi version based on the WEMOS ESP32 board (still waiting for parts to arrive). I have the Arduino code compiling. So hopefully ill have a working focuser soon ready.
If testing is required let me know.
hi ajt68, yes a new thread is probably a good idea. Do you want me to start one?
Hi Roberto i tried running emulator under wine but it doesn't work.
Ajt68 please give the emulator a go. You don't need a physical wifi focuser to test your code.
Cool. I don't have a windows computer. I only use Ubuntu. Can you send a link to the emulator and I'll try running it with wine.
Hi all, I have been reading the posts and I have to say excellent work.
I'm building a focuser based on the ESP32 board using the myFP2ESP code (thanks roberto). I want to eliminate another USD cable from my rig.
Just looking at MyFocuserPro2 in the indi control panel (I'm running the latest KStars v3.3. there is only a serial connection option.
I am wonder if (and if not, when) the TCP method has been pushed for use yet?
So looks like wifi connection option still is not supported on gphoto2. Will wait I suppose.
Hi all I did an update late last week. Tried my Canon RP. Everything seems to work ok via USB. Can trigger camera. The fit file transfers ok. I have not tried imaging with it yet as the weather here in Australia is very bad at the moment.
The next thing I'll try is wifi connection instead of USB. See if I can eliminate another cable from my rig.
This is a great idea. I manually do this now, but it is a bit hit and miss. Where i live the temperature difference between ambient and set point cooling is so high, rapid cooling or warming of a sensor may not be the best (shock to the sensor and dew freezing up).
So a simple time lag between ambient (when you first start the camera) and your final cooler set point is all is required to create a linear temperature ramp for a gradual cooling and warming up.