Since I wrote the instructions several weeks ago we have found that using warm start does not always work consistently so our work flow is to always do a cold start. So just ensure that you have a "park from" position set that reflects the set up position of the mount before you unpark (as Jasem says custom positions are not advised - I always use park 3 but have tested all positions 1-4 and they all work. Once you are up and running set your "park to" and write the data and save configs.
If you ever get a KStars crash I would always start from scratch, depower the mount and do a cold start as per the instructions. Often after a crash and a simple disconnect/reconnect the mount seems to lose it's position although this may not be apparent on the planetarium and this risks a pier collision. I suppose what I am saying is, until you are really clear and comfortable how the driver works in your set up, do not use it unattended, especially during meridian flips etc. This is still an experimental driver and the warnings are there for a reason. Having said that we have found it works well with the caveats above. Wildi did heaps of work on the driver several months ago and for users in the Southern Hemisphere these changes sorted out the parking behaviour that made the driver unusable for us in Australia. Many thanks to him for the work he did!
I could not find anything obvious in the log but at least the mount is being recognised and does connect OK. If it helps, I spent many weeks testing the driver indoors until I had established a consistent workflow. So don't give up.
If your updates do not help, just keep the information coming on the forum and someone using your controller should be able to assist. The more detail the better as everyone's set up is different.
Apologies for missing the attachment. Not sure how I missed it.
I will have a look through the log tomorrow. Our mount is a GTO1100 and uses the GTOCP4 controller. I know that the controller version can have a bearing on how the experimental driver interacts however from memory I think that the CP3 should work OK. Definitely worth updating to latest firmware etc.
My experience is only with the GTOCP4 and all the detailed instructions relate to the interaction of the experimental driver with the GTOCP4 controller. Hopefully someone on line running the GTOCP3 will be able to advise if I can't find anything obvious in your log.
I will check the log tomorrow.
The log file did not attach. As there are many steps to getting the procedure working right could you write down your step by step process. It was not clear whether the issues with being unable to write park data relate to a cold or a warm start. Which version KStars are you using?
Unfortunately I am not able to test this currently, although we did use the AP driver in the field recently (last weekend) (latest stable KStars version 3.5.3) and everything seemed to work OK.
If you can attach the log and itemise your work flow hopefully we can help.
The ASI EFW driver is not recognised in Ubuntu 20.1 as per the post mentioning this issue.
I don't think that you can just copy files over because many of the links won't work.
It is a while since I set my system up but I think this is how I did it. (below)
Provided your hard drive/SSD is not full with data you can create an image of only the data rather than the empty space on the drive with GParted which is a free app in Linux. Even 125GB SDs are pretty cheap as a back up or just save the image to a hard drive on your PC. You could create more than one partition on your drive and keep your base programs on the one and all your FITS files (if you save direct to the local drive). That way you only need to back up the smaller partition that reflects the system. You can back up the data (FITS files with just copy and paste).
Take a look at GParted it is a great program!
I think that there is an option in the Raspberry Pi SD creator program to image on the data on the SD/SSD/Hard drive too although I don't use this option currently. It is likely that someone more technically competent than I knows a better way.
No worries, obviously my thread was not titled well enough to generate any interest. I must do better next time. Ha Ha! I only noticed as my log in name had changed at the top of the page rahter than my usual Username. I just went into the profile details and changed "name" details to my user name and the post that I had submitted that showed my real name changed back to my username. So if anyone is not comfortable with showing their real name they can change all their already submitted posts back to their username by this method.
Personally it is no big deal but might be for others hence the post.
I started a thread on this the previous day, I have had no replies so I guess no one is particularly bothered (or have not noticed). Like you I just changed my profile name to match my username.
I must admit to being surprised that no one is complaining .